The occurrences of fashion and art may seem dim-a-plenty these days, but what about fashion and architecture?
You see, architecture in itself has always been a source of inspiration for fashion designers since the heydays, with similar foundation formulas being the main reason behind it.
In architecture, the rule is always: ‘form follows function’, and likewise in fashion, the garment design is constructed primarily to function; to clothe the wearer and to act as a form of shelter that encircles the wearer’s body, with aesthetics that comprise of sleek, linear silhouettes.
And like those in current times who merge fashion and architecture together, DZHUS, the eponymous concept brand of Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus interprets that logic to the fullest extent, in her latest collection for the Autumn/Winter 2013-14 season, entitled “Overground”.
Recently showcased at Ukraine Fashion Week New Names Show and Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days Showroom, the collection is an avant garde vision of how the beauty of architecture can be blended seamlessly into fashion.
In terms of aesthetics, looks were seen utilizing the technocratic detailing, specifically textured fabrics that echo futurism and industrialism with hints of rawness, as well as unique dart-lines and seams that accentuate the fit on the wearer.
Silhouettes were sharp and boxy in contrasting hues of brights and monochromatic, giving an edge to all fashionable ones; unique yet archetypical.
In essence, the collection is unlike any, with Irina’s individualistic style and directive towards building of new aesthetics, as with all her previous collections, topped with a passionate eye in reinventing contemporary garment shapes.
We asked Irina 5 questions to find out more about her collection:
Jess: Describe scenes where a woman could wear your clothes to, and describe the lifestyle that she leads
IRINA: DZHUS woman is a perfectionist longing for an uncompromisingly complementary form for her own
ideological substance. Neither her age, nor business line matters, but only her ability to comprehend a
piece of clothing intellectually. Some of my garments are quite casual and sporty whereas other ones
are perfect for a fashion or show business event.
Jess: People often says that fabrics are like canvases and platforms that allow a fashion designer to translate and display his/her imagination. How does the ‘Overground A/W13’ collection interpret your vision?
IRINA: I perceive any object through the prism of its structure. Thus, architectural theme of the collection is an
allegoric interpretation of my worldview.
Jess: Your collection uses a range of special fabrics to match up to the architectural silhouettes of your designs. Tell us more about these fabrics of yours.
IRINA: We don’t manufacture fabrics for our collections yet. Although, I think, designing textiles would expand
our creative potential in future. For this season, I chose materials showing strong association with
building materials and atmosphere. I used wrinkled and metallised fabrics, net, glimmering copper
coloured silk, smoky chiffon and other peculiarly textured surfaces as well as recognizable palette:
white, grey, terracotta, copper, silver, brick-red, uniform blue and khaki.
Jess: What are some of the most significant experiences you have had whilst designing this collection?
IRINA: Analysing shapes and structures of the monumental constructions I was inspired by, and trying my best
to embody their principles in silhouettes and cut of my designs were the most exciting processes for me.
Also, seeing the result and meeting my expectations, as well as bringing my idea to life was an inexpressible feeling.
Jess: If you could sum up the concept of your collection with one word, what would it be?
Check out DZHUS’s ‘Overground’ A/W 2013 collection at:
Showrooms– THE ONE concept store – Komoora concept store in Ukraine.